Brake discs and pads
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oscar
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https://www.opieoils.co.uk/product-finder.aspx?CategoryID=87&ProductTypeID=80&SEName=brembo-brake-discs get brembo pads / discs front and rears and use the code ''DEAL20'' and get a set of brembos all round for 200 quid, steal! your local motorfactors is also a good place to get pads and discs. you should get sorted out for about 50-100 quid on eicher / pagid discs and pads if you're fine with that.
front pads / discs :
1 - remove the two pin bolt caps and the guide pin bolts (sliding pins you might call them)
2 - swing the caliper back and rest it on an axle stand making sure not to put strain or excessive weight on the brake flexi hose
3 - remove the calliper carrier / mounting, there's two bolts at the back of it. whack them off and then the carrier will come off
4 - remove the two disc bolts ( these MUST ALWAYS be replaced, NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!) on the centre of the disc, you may need an impact screwdriver to break these free. remove the disc
refit :
1 - apply some brake cleaner to the new discs, they come supplied with a layer of oil to protect from rust whilst they sit on the shelf. give it a good wipe down all over with brake cleaner and a rag / dry cloth.
2 - the refit will be the reversal of removal, the only special tool you will need is a brake caliper piston push back / rewind tool. you can buy a universal rewind set of ebay which will do you for life and costs you under 20 pounds. you need to push the piston back to fit the new pads in, otherwise the caliper won't go back on the disc.
3 - ALWAYS replace the caliper mounting bolts
rear pads / discs :
1 - remove the 2 caliper guide bolts (Remember to ALWAYS renew these!) and pop the calliper off like before
2 - remove the 2 caliper carrier bolts (ALWAYS replace these too!)
3 - remove the pads (remember this time to REWIND the piston back clockwise, wheraes on the front you'd push it back in) replace pads applying a bit of copper grease to the back of the pads making sure to get NONE on the frictional surface of the pads , if you do get any on it, bin them and get more pads! refit the guide pins (remember to ALWAYS replace these) ready for refit to the caliper carrier upon rebuild
4-remove the disc hub nut cover, and then the hub nut (ALWAYS replace the hub nut, no exeptions otherwise your wheels going to fall off it's that simple)
5 - remove disc
refit :
1 - again, this is the reversal of the removal.
remember to replace calliper guide pin bolts / calliper carrier bolts / hub nuts / brake disc bolts with no exceptions.
TOOLS REQUIRED -
1/2'' socket set
32mm hub nut deep socket
master bar
brake rewind / push back tool
torx bit set (for the disc bolts)
torque wrench or wrenches
TIGHTENING TORQUES :
guide pin bolts - 35 Nm
calliper carrier bolts - 100Nm front / 105Nm rear
brake disc bolt -14Nm (front and rear)
rear hub nut - 175Nm (rear)
my fingers really hurt now. some moderator needs to put this into an how too guide, i would but my fingers are now out of the game for the whole day lol
front pads / discs :
1 - remove the two pin bolt caps and the guide pin bolts (sliding pins you might call them)
2 - swing the caliper back and rest it on an axle stand making sure not to put strain or excessive weight on the brake flexi hose
3 - remove the calliper carrier / mounting, there's two bolts at the back of it. whack them off and then the carrier will come off
4 - remove the two disc bolts ( these MUST ALWAYS be replaced, NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!) on the centre of the disc, you may need an impact screwdriver to break these free. remove the disc
refit :
1 - apply some brake cleaner to the new discs, they come supplied with a layer of oil to protect from rust whilst they sit on the shelf. give it a good wipe down all over with brake cleaner and a rag / dry cloth.
2 - the refit will be the reversal of removal, the only special tool you will need is a brake caliper piston push back / rewind tool. you can buy a universal rewind set of ebay which will do you for life and costs you under 20 pounds. you need to push the piston back to fit the new pads in, otherwise the caliper won't go back on the disc.
3 - ALWAYS replace the caliper mounting bolts
rear pads / discs :
1 - remove the 2 caliper guide bolts (Remember to ALWAYS renew these!) and pop the calliper off like before
2 - remove the 2 caliper carrier bolts (ALWAYS replace these too!)
3 - remove the pads (remember this time to REWIND the piston back clockwise, wheraes on the front you'd push it back in) replace pads applying a bit of copper grease to the back of the pads making sure to get NONE on the frictional surface of the pads , if you do get any on it, bin them and get more pads! refit the guide pins (remember to ALWAYS replace these) ready for refit to the caliper carrier upon rebuild
4-remove the disc hub nut cover, and then the hub nut (ALWAYS replace the hub nut, no exeptions otherwise your wheels going to fall off it's that simple)
5 - remove disc
refit :
1 - again, this is the reversal of the removal.
remember to replace calliper guide pin bolts / calliper carrier bolts / hub nuts / brake disc bolts with no exceptions.
TOOLS REQUIRED -
1/2'' socket set
32mm hub nut deep socket
master bar
brake rewind / push back tool
torx bit set (for the disc bolts)
torque wrench or wrenches
TIGHTENING TORQUES :
guide pin bolts - 35 Nm
calliper carrier bolts - 100Nm front / 105Nm rear
brake disc bolt -14Nm (front and rear)
rear hub nut - 175Nm (rear)
my fingers really hurt now. some moderator needs to put this into an how too guide, i would but my fingers are now out of the game for the whole day lol
singlespeed
Well-known member
You could have just copied the link from the 'how to' section with the guide on changing front pads 
Saves forgetting the spring
Saves forgetting the spring
singlespeed
Well-known member
singlespeed
Well-known member
You said for the Front of a 133... Vented discs should be the only option.J18BYE_RS":14eptdpz said:
Or, are you meaning grooved/drilled? In which case, if you want the looks then carry on. If not, I'd not bother
oscar
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usually the rear discs on a car are solids and the fronts are vented, as the fronts do most of the braking and the rears do little of the braking so don't require the same amount of cooling that vented discs provide you with. like neil said, theres no real benefit in getting grooved or drilled discs in terms of cooling performance but the theory is that the grooves will channel away the brake dust and provide a larger surface area for the air to cool the disc. you'll be spot on with the normal brembo's though dude
I did find these on eBay, what do you think? https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/290707626438?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
oscar
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looks good to me man. having grooved / drilled discs provide a bigger surface area for the air to cool the disc, and the grooves themselves help to remove the brake dust and channels it out. so you can't really fail there!
singlespeed
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oscar
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yep, those are the standard discs. just made of HC steel (high carbon) and are the OEM discs fitted to twingo 133's. if you are looking for a like for like replacement for the standard discs that come on all 133's then these are the ones to go for. have you measured your current brake disc thickness to check that you actually need new discs?J18BYE_RS":1sjtf1uy said:
singlespeed
Well-known member
Yep. It was the first link i landed on. Navigate to the Twingo link if it makes you feel better seeing them as Twingo discs and there gona be the same disc part numberJ18BYE_RS":ywp298no said: