Brake pedal shuddering when im going fast braking in corners

[benjy133]

When im braking going fast in corners the brake pedal shudders (bounces) has anyone ever has this problem

 

[AS_BO]

Sounds like warped discs buddy?

 

[oscar]

any more info benjy? do you notice any vibrations at slower speeds, also how hard are you braking? are you sure this is not your abs system kicking in. you'll need to check have the run out of your discs measured by a garage, or do this yourself with a dti guage if you have one to find out if the discs are warped

 

[benjy133]

Im gonna get it jacked up after my dinner and have a look about so ill check that thanks

 

[benjy133]

No its deffinatly not the abs kicking it, it only does it when im going fast and braking late in corners it doesnt do it any other time, im getting some drilled and grooved discs in the next week or so anyway so ill see if that solves it
Thanks

 

[oscar]

like AS_BO said, it's going to be your brake discs man. the only way you can check them is with a dial test indicator by performing a disc run out test. this won't be visible with the eye as the run outs are miniscule.

as seen below, maximum disc runout is 0,03 mm .
technical-and-paint-information/twingo-renaultsport-maintenace-t371.html

 

[LC]

I have the same problem except mine judders and scrapes think it's the same problem oscar mine are quite rusted looking?

 

[oscar]

I have the same problem except mine judders and scrapes think it's the same problem oscar mine are quite rusted looking?

brake discs are made from cast iron, so they are prone to rusting (even overnight) especially with the salt on the roads nowadays. rusting is normal within reason and is usually cleaned off by applying the brake pedal. if you are feeling a vibration as mentioned above, i'd definitely recommend that you renew your discs and pads. the reason for needing pads as well is that your pads will be scored and bedded in to the discs warp, so when replacing discs it is always recommended that you replace pads.

neil has posted a guide in the 'how to' section for replacing pads, to remove the discs all you need to do is remove the caliper & rest it on 'something', remove the caliper carrier and then remove the disc itself by removing the 2 torx disc retainer screws on the face of the disc next to the wheel bolt holes.

how/front-brake-pad-replacement-guide-rs133-t9671.html

pretty much the same method for removing the gt's calipers, slightly different but if you've got a fair diy socket set then you'll be fine

 

[LC]

Yeah I'm waiting to see how you get on with yours at the moment I know my car was sitting quite a bit before I brought it

 

[oscar]

Yeah I'm waiting to see how you get on with yours at the moment I know my car was sitting quite a bit before I brought it

awhhh i knew i forgot something. they've been on for the past two weeks. looks like this weeks job will be to strip it back down and take some pictures on fitments and ****. they are braking bloody sharply, transformed the braking for sure!

 

[benjy133]

Ill let you's no next week when i put my new discs and pads on if the problem is still there

 

[mazmaz]

does it make the problem when ESP is off?

 

[oscar]

does it make the problem when ESP is off?

regardless of wither or not the ESP control was on or off, the juddering would still result in the discs being the only culprate. ESP is an ABS controlled programme that is intended to help seer the vehicle under ABS braking

 

[singlespeed]

Warping the discs isn't very common with reasonable quality discs. The ones on the Audi were regularly glowing and didn't warp.

Uneven corrosion from sitting stationary for a few weeks, having most of the disc exposed and a patch covered by the pads will leave a section that grips less or more than the rest. This is my usual problem as I work away for three weeks at a time. Can be felt at all speeds and usually clears up after a bit as the rusty patch evens out

Pad pickup. With some pads, when they are overheated, they can leave a film on the disc. If you stop before the discs are cool, the film can be uneven, again giving a patch with different friction. This seems harder to clear from driving/braking, but some coarse emery paper to scuff the surface of the disc has worked. Youl need to bed them back in for a bit afterwards

 

[oscar]

Warping the discs isn't very common with reasonable quality discs. The ones on the Audi were regularly glowing and didn't warp.

Uneven corrosion from sitting stationary for a few weeks, having most of the disc exposed and a patch covered by the pads will leave a section that grips less or more than the rest. This is my usual problem as I work away for three weeks at a time. Can be felt at all speeds and usually clears up after a bit as the rusty patch evens out

Pad pickup. With some pads, when they are overheated, they can leave a film on the disc. If you stop before the discs are cool, the film can be uneven, again giving a patch with different friction. This seems harder to clear from driving/braking, but some coarse emery paper to scuff the surface of the disc has worked. Youl need to bed them back in for a bit afterwards

when referring to warping in the trade, what we actually refer to is the disc run out (although as we both know, these are two different things). this has obviously become so excessive in the OP's case in regards to the disc run out that a shuddering / pulsating feel has come through the brake pedal. as neil mentioned, there could be a few reasons as to why this is. the best thing to do will be to strip the brakes down and inspect the pads & discs, there could be oil contamination on the pads or on one of the pads which could come from anything like water contaminated with oil / diesel on the road splashing up onto the disc with the pad running across it.

you will require a dial test indicator to check the disc run out, this is checked in most garages when the brakes are inspected and is apart of a major service.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/120985547302?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95 this will do the job nicely, has the magnetic base to stick onto the hub!

 

[Stunty]

My friend who had a DC2 Integra Type R had a juddering through the brake pedal so he replaced the pads and discs and the problem went away. However... a few hundred miles later the problem was back. It turned out that the callipers were faulty causing the discs to warp. :s

 

[singlespeed]

My friend who had a DC2 Integra Type R had a juddering through the brake pedal so he replaced the pads and discs and the problem went away. However... a few hundred miles later the problem was back. It turned out that the callipers were faulty causing the discs to warp. :s

Yes, a sticking caliper piston, or sliders on single piston callipers ( as found on Twingo and most cars) can cause a lo of heat to be generated as there's a constant pressure keeping the pad(s) against the disc so there's no time for it to cool down

If you make sure the piston pushes back smoothly without major force, the slider pins are free and greased and the pads aren't tight in the caliper/carrier then a recurrence wouldn't happen.

 

[oscar]

everything that neil said, and it's always recommended that you renew the slider pins every 2-3 years of servicing. the grease breaks down and heat fatigue can warp the slider pins and even just a small warp can make them stick eventually. this is something not many people do, including myself to be fair but i'm a mechanic. i take care of everyones car exept my own!

 

[LC]

Mine did it again last night made like a ripping sound? any ideas?

 

[waitey]

Mine did it again last night made like a ripping sound? any ideas?

Yeah, something's broken :lol: