how to check a drop link?

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user 980

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Renault think its a drop link or a bush causing the knocking from the front corner. Noise only comes and goes when the weight is being shifted about. Not present on a straight road when cruising along

How can you check the droplink and can someone post a photo pointing to it please.

Not paying 80quid diagnostic fee if its just a droplink so I want to rule it out
 
pretty confused mark. who's charging you 80 quid to look at it, and why on earth are you still using this place? if you go to any garage that isn't a dealership then they'll check it for you for nothing. you all badly need to get out of the belief that a renalt dealership is somehow better than an independant local garage lol. it takes two minutes to check a drop link (checking for the balljoint and ARB drop link bushing)

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=17999855 better than me perhaps trying to explain it to you. obviosly this is a universal guide on checking droplinks but the methods still the same :)
 
Well I went because they wanted to look at it to diagnose the two noises. Now they've ruled out a snapped spring or anything major they want me to book it in to be diagnoses. They stuck it on the ramps and said it was nothing obvious. Obviously now I'd rather check myself. I'll read that link thanks mate
 
copied and pasted off another forum so that i dont need to type lol. this is for a mercedes A class but the technique is the same, offcourse ignore the refitting part as that's specific to the merc. :)


Ensure the handbrake is on fully
Block the rear wheels
Position the vehicle jack on the jacking point, front O/S or N/S.
Slacken wheel nuts of the wheel, on the side you are going to work first, bearing in mind that drop links are replaced in pairs.
Raise the vehicle only sufficiently to able to remove the wheel.
Using a second jack , place it under the wishbone( i.e. directly below the suspension)Using a plate, or piece of wood as necessary to protect the underside of the wishbone.
Raise the jack until the drive shaft is horizontal with the car, This action will raise the Ati-roll bar, and drop link bottom fixing point thereby taking pressure off the drop link, both top and bottom.
Slacken and remove the drop link fixing nuts, Top and bottom (observing points made above)Note leaving the drop link ball joints under pressure did not stop the spindles from turning in their housing
The old drop link should fall away from it's fixing points.
Re-fit the new drop link ,ensure the nuts are fully tightened to 60Nm
Gently lower the jack from beneath the wishbone
Re-fit wheel, Torque wheel nuts to 110Nm.
Repeat procedure on the other side of the car
Enter a record of replacements in your service record book (I use a page I have fixed in the back of the book)
Incidentally it is worth saving a couple of the gaiters off the old drop links! If when working on the car you damage a gaiter on a track rod end or wishbone lower ball joint you can then replace it without having to buy a new unit.
 
That's excellent thanks. How can I check it though? Front end on axel stands and give it a good shake? Check the rubbers?
 
yeah mark, check out for excessive movement in the bushes. they should flex only very slightly to the point where it would appear as if it's not moving at all. the problem will be with the bushes, so get it on axle stands get underneath it and get your dad to wiggle as you said, so that you can be underneath and watching for the excessive freeplay. cost about a tenner for a new bush, drop links aren't much more expensive either
 
Right its too cold and dark and I've been up since 5am :(

I've just parked all 4 wheels on the drive with full steering lock.

Reached under and grabbed the drop link. Near the bottom it clicked slightly as in you could feel and see a little knock each time you pulled it. I only had my hand on it with my thumb resting on the shock and pulled it if you can imagine with a clenching motion. The passenger side droplink there was no movement apart from the general flex in the rod in the center.

Where as the drivers side didn't flex in the middle it moved lower down. It was solid at the top and didn't budge. So maybe the lower rubber is shot? Should there be no movement what so ever? If I can make it move/click slightly without using much force surely a 1000kg car could cause the awful knocking from the droplink if its shot? I'm talking about maybe 2-3mm of movement that isn't down to it flexing if you understand me?

Rambling over
 
it shouldn't click, that points to an excessively worn ball joint on the D/Link. don't bother your backside going into renault either mark. get down to cartek if it's still around mate. not got a clue why you'd even consider renault (or is it warranty work?)


edit - i have no idea why i thought you were RobMclav, suggesting you a garage in East Kilbride in scotland! still though don't go to renault lol
 
Was going to be warranty work but after them giving it a brief look over and them saying its looking like a bush or drop link I'm not risking the diagnostic fee. You got the part number by any chance for a full fat with cup chassis? Both left and right. Definetly moves I'll just replace them and see. Cheapest option first
 
Never heard of cartek haha and it'll probably be cheaper to drive to Scotland and get it fixed
 
markhardy":3kxkbnu4 said:
Was going to be warranty work but after them giving it a brief look over and them saying its looking like a bush or drop link I'm not risking the diagnostic fee. You got the part number by any chance for a full fat with cup chassis? Both left and right. Definetly moves I'll just replace them and see. Cheapest option first


haha still laughing at how i thought you were rob. i'm tired, just ignore my mess ups tonight man! :p

part numbers i don't have, although you'll be fine to go into a motor factors and get the parts for much cheaper. they will be the same OE parts, just not in a renault box. after all, that is renaults trick to charging you extortionate prices. if you're not fitting them yourself, then you'd only be looking at about an hour or so in labour to get a garage to fit them for you. i'd get the bushes done whilst there, at least that way you've got the entire ARB > bushing > drop link in good order, and the bushes will only cost you about a tenner a side
 
ooooo so there's a bush as well as the drop link? I'm not clued up as you can tell. Does the droplink not have a bush at either end?

So theres:
- the arb
- then a bush (is this the bush people go on about when they say they've fitted arb powerflex polybushes?)
- then the droplink (bush at either end?)

I'll be doing it myself although I'm guessing it'll be a lovely job trying to get the arb bushes in and out?

I take it it's just good practice to replace both drop links at the same time? Or is it pointless?
 
arb.jpg


at the end of the droplinks, there is a bush. one for each side. hope that helps man! yeah that's the bushes they'll be on about https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/products/Renault-26/t1.html
 
Cheers

It always knocks when dropping off the drive onto a lower part of the drive. I reverse in, turn slightly and then briefly there is no weight on the front drivers corner. It knocks once when doing that. Lower ball joints look in good condition
 
theoretically the ones from the 5gt turbo will fit as they are 21mm
 
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