What r2 parts would work and be cost effective

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The Magnetti Marelli is completely standalone and NOT CHEAP!
It has to be used with their dash and is optimised for their Cams, Manifold, Exhaust, Pistons, Rods, Intake and everything else.

Speak to Autosport Technologies.
They're UK based and run the two R2 Twingos in the BRC.

Brakes would be pretty cost effective.
Struts are optimised for Tarmac Tyres (anything from Dry Semi Slicks, Intermediates to Full wets) or Gravel set up and (being Ohlins) aren't cheap.


Hate to burst your bubble...
 
suspension would be amazing if not costly to set up correctly every time you went from road to track.

from contact with renault sport france, the only thing engine wise changed was cams/valves and springs but wouldnt state if it keeps VVT or not and wouldnt really give me any details. in their eyes if your not an R owner fact chance getting the parts or information on them.

4-2-1 manifold can be brought from them at a good price but they charge a fortune for sports cat and exhaust which could be done custom for less. also supersprint do 4-1 manifold for k4m if your interested in sport-cat/de-cat option and would require less mapping would then 4-2-1.

top of my head if you wanted actually big power increase would be higher compression postions at 12.7:0 over stock 11:0 (off top of my head) which you can buy or cams (when catcams actually start selling them as they've been tested already). both would require a custom remap which wouldnt be cheap. one or the other at a very rough guess would get you 8bhp increace with a remap.

for air intake i believe the r2's was something like £300 odd mark with paper filter. not sure if you could source a performance one to the right sizing. you'd also need to dump your battery into the car to free up the space

could replace the joints but you'd have one hell of a firm ride!
 
i like the idear of haveing a 140bhp twingo ! but as you said would be a lot of pennys allthough will be a loan jobby for me :lol:
 
heres the kicker.... only works on the r2 gearbox. main reason why r1 doesnt have it.
clio 1*2 could be fitted with some work, but there even more expensive then similar sized/power cars

as i've said before with the things i've done i'd take a different way to get the power. instead of getting a remap for £300 + would of got piggie back ecu/loom for £500 mark. have it lived mapped at £100per hour and have such a better line then what could be done with standard ecu no matter what the tuner (RS and Ktec both called it quites after 6 hours or so). and then drop in high compression with catback exhaust and never touch the bugger again. would hit 140 with perfect mapping. *lessons learnt, start at the foundation-the ecu*
 
just switch your plates and tax disc from your 133 to the r2 ;) and hope to god you dont crash it. hehe
 
madmatt":16dc2gvk said:
matbry01":16dc2gvk said:
i like the idear of haveing a 140bhp twingo ! but as you said would be a lot of pennys allthough will be a loan jobby for me :lol:

Try 160 :p

£30k it's yours :lol:

that is steap ! :lol:
 
well thats put a downer on it, so just take it to ktec and have a cat back exaust, change manifold, change to a racing airfilter and upgrade ecu and hope for 140bhp. How much will that cost £1k?
 
If you want something with power, don't buy a twingo. Simples. The attraction of it is it's the baby rs, the cheapest option into rs ownership (new) and it has cheap insurance and tax to reflect that. It's charming that the chassis performance outweighs the engine. I didn't buy it for it to be the quickest car in the world, I got it cos it was fun with what it had.
 
find a wrecked clio gt and use the gearbox, aint gonna get your bp but will help get you a higher speed if you've got a mile to spear hehe
cheapest option by far, NOs it and have fun on the drag
 
oh i didnt buy it for a drag car, just would like to get the most out of it! the road around where i live we beat the big engines everytime as they cant use them.
 
The CatCams camshafts are not quite in production yet but we should be able to sell them v. soon
 
orbital":b41hi6bh said:
top of my head if you wanted actually big power increase would be higher compression postions at 12.7:0 over stock 11:0 (off top of my head)

Sometimes I do wonder what happen if you keep everything fairly stock (retaining the VVT) and just put in the pistons (and maybe con rods) and just map it that way... Normally if you increase the compression other cams are in place, but what if you want to keep the VVT? Only higher lifting cams are needed?
 
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