150 BHP

[Thursto133]

I've been doing a little research and I'm pretty sure 150bhp is possible if not you can get pretty damn close. From what I can see you need to buy
A BMC cold air intake system
Ktec exhaust system (the new one £900!!!)
And here is going to be the controversial one... Remove the catalytic converter (on most cars this gives an extra 5 or so HP however on ours should give 10 maybe more)
Once you have done this and have it all fitted pop down to ktech tell them what you have done and get them to remap your engine to suit these changes and also to run on the premium fuel V power stuff (most engines only made to run on standard)

Once this is all done you should be looking at 145HP at least.

Catalytic converter wise however some research would have to be done prior to make sure that it won't fail the emissions test come MOT day. It might make it but it also might not. Alternatively you can buy a replacement cat which will provide extra HP. However whether there is one that fits the twingo is another question.

Discuss...

 

[Oliver]

I think 150hp on a 133 shouldn´t be such a big challange as I have brought my non-RS K4M already to 142hp / 183Nm...

https://vrweb.boisen.biz/~seegi/Umbau/Umbauengl.html

 

[Westy]

Remember engines are just basically air pumps... Make the components as light and smooth as possible with strength being very important, increase the airways and your onto a winner..... Porting, polishing, exhaust, pistons, con rods, valves, flywheel, intake fanimold or intake all together (itb) turbo, supercharger.... After that come setting it all up, remap stand alone management etc, after that comes taming the beast, suspension, top mounts tracking, brakes, tyres, seats.....


The compromise all comes down to money.... Money and time....

 

[Westy]

I don't know that much of the technical side of cars (wish I did) but I find that hard to believe that every pod filter is bad.

It all depends how and where its sitting and if it's getting enough fresh air.

Sure the OEM airbox is build there for a reason but it's also build to cost as less as possible for the performance they want when it comes out of the factory.

Doesn't mean you can't improve it.

It's not uncommon to see better results from a replacement pannel filter, like itg etc. Open filters suck in hot air, this is bad news. A panel filter flows more air and it is colder this is good news... No show, more go...

Renault spent 80million euros on r&d for the tce engine.....

 

[mazmaz]

this setting is bad they should close this filter in a box

but if you make a big prep you have to change the air box because it's going limitating element

in twingo air box is basically the same as the clio 2RS

so it's not limitating if your engine is stock


personnaly and modified my engine and next i modified my air box
it have been show on clio 2rs
95 % of the non OEM air box make loose power ... why spent money to loose power ....

 

[MovingShadow]

Thing is, your talking from the view of the RS airbox. Yes, thats a decent sized airbox but some here are talking also about the GT airbox which is actually rather tiny compared to the RS one.

But when you remap the GT engine to 130 bhp, I beleive the tiny airbox becomes a bottleneck for the GT engine that produces as much horsepower now as a (standard) RS.

 

[mazmaz]

no money no gain

 

[mazmaz]

Thing is, your talking from the view of the RS airbox. Yes, thats a decent sized airbox but some here are talking also about the GT airbox which is actually rather tiny compared to the RS one.

But when you remap the GT engine to 130 bhp, I beleive the tiny airbox becomes a bottleneck for the GT engine that produces as much horsepower now as a (standard) RS.

GT and RS are so different that we should not speak of them in the same topics

and here it's 133 forum so i didn't take care that some people were speaking about the TCE

it's like speaking of chocolate and french fry on the same topics ^^

 

[MovingShadow]

Thing is, your talking from the view of the RS airbox. Yes, thats a decent sized airbox but some here are talking also about the GT airbox which is actually rather tiny compared to the RS one.

But when you remap the GT engine to 130 bhp, I beleive the tiny airbox becomes a bottleneck for the GT engine that produces as much horsepower now as a (standard) RS.

GT and RS are so different that we should not speak of them in the same topics

and here it's 133 forum so i didn't take care that some people were speaking about the TCE

it's like speaking of chocolate and french fry on the same topics ^^

I know, thats why I think there's some confusion going on..

 

[BikNorton]

I believe the best option is a panel filter. If using an open filter you will need.... Thats need.... to allow cold air into to get in to iit so a bonnet vent would be ideal. Otherwise its all hot air...

There's also the "third way" of BMC's CDA that a few people on here seem to have and I had on my CTR - a cone filter wrapped in a carbon airbox to minimise heatsoak and a cold air feed that you point somewhere cold (but dry). It should actually suffer from heatsoak less than the OEM plastic box, while providing more filter area (and noise, it certainly did on my Civic!).

 

[BikNorton]

Aye, I was just pointing out it's not simply "panel filter in a box" or "heatsoaked cone filter" - a lot of cone filters come with heatshields, or people fab their own, but BMC have gone a bit further.

 

[Dubz]

Density, cold air means more air in.... So i stick with my panel filter thought.

Density is just one factor. You've got to apply volume to that.

You could get more air into your engine if it's warm if the cold air was very minimal or is restricted

 

[tw11ngo]

Density, cold air means more air in.... So i stick with my panel filter thought.

Density is just one factor. You've got to apply volume to that.

You could get more air into your engine if it's warm if the cold air was very minimal or is restricted

The mass density of a material is its mass per unit volume.

 

[Westy]

It's a tce.... Clio is like a twingo but just eaten to many pies....

 

[Araf]

I agree! In the beginning I was thinking this board is more or less serious, but even in the technical section nearly every thread is trashed in the end because of this accumulation of "specialists"....

Crazy Europeans mentioning 700hp RX7 and Jet powered cars :? :lol:

As you have mentioned already, you have seen 141hp from your K4M-7** series engine. With the higher compresion ratio and different head of the K4M-854 engine in the RS133, similar modifications to improve the inlet, sports manifold and cat, similar spec sport cams should easily break 150. Head work and different pistons or a skim to increase the CR to about 12:1 easily should break 160.

Please don't give up. Please crack on with the topic. Some of us are interested in, and reading the important bits.

There's one poster that seems to have done a couple of weeks at college, and is spouting inaccuracies as if they are fact and really should STFU. :roll:
Maybe I should go through and report all of their posts. :lol:

Back on topic, you talk about raising the CR to 12:1, but isn't that a bit high? Surely the ECU will pull the timing under load, which will rob the engine of power and defeat the object? Or are you thinking of running a fuel additive?

 

[singlespeed]

Back on topic, you talk about raising the CR to 12:1, but isn't that a bit high? Surely the ECU will pull the timing under load, which will rob the engine of power and defeat the object? Or are you thinking of running a fuel additive?

The Woosner pistons are 12.7:1CR so 12 is certainly realistic.But theres no point me going for forged slipper pistons, when I don't generaly rev the nuts off the engine which is where slippers come into their own. Untill measuring the valve lift with the new cams, I'm not sure if anything but a reface skim would be possible without having the piston pockets altered. If possible, upping the CR from 11 to 12 should see gains throughout the rev range around 3-4%. Better thermal efficiency and fuel efficiency.

To help detonation, keeping the inlet charge as cool as possible is important and, Olivers modified plastic inlet is certainly an option to consider, or thermal wrap the inlet runners because the aluminium inlet certainly gets hot. Maybe a cooler spark plug, but we will see how things go.

I doubt if I'll be running 95RON in future