300mm discs conversion
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Kam Racing
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pad shape may be different though?
Just thought I'd ask members that are looking for 'Big Brake' set ups?
A) Using current 280 discs and calipers?
B) Using current 280mm with 2/4 pots?
C) Using 300mm with current calipers?
D) Using 300mm with 2/4 pots?
If my conversion works I'll have disc and carriers that I could send off to hi-spec to have adapter tracks to make them fit with current calipers over 300mm discs, saving the effort of having to buy scenic carriers.
Get them to make brackets for their current 2/4 pots to work with discs.
2 piece 280mm discs?
I've seen they do 2 piece 300mm x 24mm for £190 which is tempting
A) Using current 280 discs and calipers?
B) Using current 280mm with 2/4 pots?
C) Using 300mm with current calipers?
D) Using 300mm with 2/4 pots?
If my conversion works I'll have disc and carriers that I could send off to hi-spec to have adapter tracks to make them fit with current calipers over 300mm discs, saving the effort of having to buy scenic carriers.
Get them to make brackets for their current 2/4 pots to work with discs.
2 piece 280mm discs?
I've seen they do 2 piece 300mm x 24mm for £190 which is tempting
oscar
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depends what the you require from your brakes. will you be doing rally stages and be on the brakes 50% of the time doing lots of late braking or are you just wanting an extra inch to impress the girls? 
hahaha just playing man. 280 mm discs give a massive surface area to help stop your car. the tricks in choosing the correct pad. a ds2500 or a CL pad with OEM calipers just as good as multi pot calipers within reason on daily and spirited drives, also for track days. if you want to track your car a lot then go for 4 pots 280 mm discs and 4 pots to maximise the clamping force on the pads. no need to do the upgrade to 300 mm brakes unless you've got aggressive cams or turbo conversions in mind
hahaha just playing man. 280 mm discs give a massive surface area to help stop your car. the tricks in choosing the correct pad. a ds2500 or a CL pad with OEM calipers just as good as multi pot calipers within reason on daily and spirited drives, also for track days. if you want to track your car a lot then go for 4 pots 280 mm discs and 4 pots to maximise the clamping force on the pads. no need to do the upgrade to 300 mm brakes unless you've got aggressive cams or turbo conversions in mindthe_notorious_C_A_T
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I'm sure I read somewhere that the 406 brembo's fit the mounting points of the strut for the calipers, if true could cut out some of the work required?
A carrier has just turned up. Very roughly cast :/ and halfords not open till 9 . Needing to prime and spray is Ford electric orange like my wishbones and ARB.
Discs are quite heavy and huge.
I'm hoping Thursday I'll be able to drive up a ramp to get under the front to see if the slider does match.
I'm hoping there's give on the braided brake line, I had the proto type one so not sure if much change was made to the full release one from Ktec
Discs are quite heavy and huge.
I'm hoping Thursday I'll be able to drive up a ramp to get under the front to see if the slider does match.
I'm hoping there's give on the braided brake line, I had the proto type one so not sure if much change was made to the full release one from Ktec
Can confirm that disc conversion has worked, just got off the phone from Ktec. Took a lot longer then standard ones, due to the time couldn't see if their 300mm 2 piece would work but will have a chat tomorrow and will see with Hi Spec as well.
Seems the larger pads with the backing plate was a pain in the arse! And with limited compounds, May be worth just stick with DS2500 pads with the larger discs.
Seems the larger pads with the backing plate was a pain in the arse! And with limited compounds, May be worth just stick with DS2500 pads with the larger discs.
Come across with fitting the larger pads, the thickness consistency is hit and miss. left side hugs the discs quite a bit, were as left side isn't as bad. Not idea. Getting the discs warm on a drive say the least. Hoping by the time I hit 500 miles to Aberdeen the pads should be worn down a bit. might check them with standard 133 pads when I get home. Haven't heard this issue with others
oscar
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was very hard to read what you just said, no offence meant. it didn't make much sense but i've sort of picked up a vague generalisation that you feel the pad thickness is too thick? your solution will be to get a block sander of sorts with a dead flat surface and remove a mm or two until you have met your desired thickness. i always make a point of scuffing up new pads before fitment so that they are bedded in from the first second!
singlespeed
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80 grit sandpaper can quickly take 1/2mm off the friction material of a pad.
That's a whole lot faster than expecting the pads to bed in and wear down. The disc and pad will be cooking way before 0.1mm has gone from it.
That's a whole lot faster than expecting the pads to bed in and wear down. The disc and pad will be cooking way before 0.1mm has gone from it.
Stupid auto text, didn't proof read it.
All fine now, first 300 hundred miles the discs were hot, but got cooler between 2 hourly stops.
Tip noted for future, really didn't think there would be so much difference in thickness between pads
All fine now, first 300 hundred miles the discs were hot, but got cooler between 2 hourly stops.
Tip noted for future, really didn't think there would be so much difference in thickness between pads
oscar
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mwalsh":tdaukkxi said:
this is good practice for any pads that you might fit to any car, standard brake set up or not. the idea is that even if they are the right size there is a very thin layer of glazing on the brake pads themselves due to oxidisation so roughing them up with some 80 grit paper as neil suggested simply removes that layer and your pads are bedded in straight away so long as you use a flat surface / block to sand the pads. even removing 0,2 mm is enough for normal pads
Since i've now bit into the modding bug after a year out of track and playing around and seeing how this Brake mod worked (thats to the german site ).
I came across also from there about someone using Escape 2 pots on their 1*2, with 300mm discs. From what ive read it failed first time (although i havent read he last 3 pages), due to the discs being to large to bolt on the hub. from what ive seen (so far) is that it was bought with 280mm carriers, since i now have 300mm carriers, i have disc clearance. Just the case of if the caliper it's self will mount in the carrier, but luckily i have the old ones still.
so i might order one and fit it a shot, no harm lost, and since the 133 caliper is larger then the 1*2's, there should be less of a difference between pedal travel. If i remembered correctly it was works out as up to 20% max .
the power of ebay and the modding bug haha
if anyone knows of a broken one of these calipers, please give me a shout
I came across also from there about someone using Escape 2 pots on their 1*2, with 300mm discs. From what ive read it failed first time (although i havent read he last 3 pages), due to the discs being to large to bolt on the hub. from what ive seen (so far) is that it was bought with 280mm carriers, since i now have 300mm carriers, i have disc clearance. Just the case of if the caliper it's self will mount in the carrier, but luckily i have the old ones still.
so i might order one and fit it a shot, no harm lost, and since the 133 caliper is larger then the 1*2's, there should be less of a difference between pedal travel. If i remembered correctly it was works out as up to 20% max .
the power of ebay and the modding bug haha
if anyone knows of a broken one of these calipers, please give me a shout
Bored in work and did some searching, mk3 2 pots aren't going to work as they mount different to older style carriers. But the mk 4 60mm single pot should.
Now a question for the tech heads. The 60mm is for 28mm thick discs, 280mm stock and 300mm upgrade is 24mm thick.
I'm guessing it'll work but I'm also guessing there would be more force to require it to clasp a further 4mm or pedal travel will be a lot greater?
Cheers
Now a question for the tech heads. The 60mm is for 28mm thick discs, 280mm stock and 300mm upgrade is 24mm thick.
I'm guessing it'll work but I'm also guessing there would be more force to require it to clasp a further 4mm or pedal travel will be a lot greater?
Cheers
singlespeed
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You could get two shims, 1.5 to 2mm thick cut to the same shape as the pad backing plate. That would prevent the caliper piston traveling too far out and coming out off the piston seal when the pads/disc get worn. Obviously, the piston not being sealed would be far from funmwalsh":1w8ubrj0 said:
The idea works on kart calipers which have a short piston travel and need adjusting for pad wear
thanks for the heads up Neil.
but i've just searched and found single 60mm pot for 24mm discs for about £34 which isnt to bad , just wishing now i kept the old 280mm disc.
hoping that this at the end of the day will allow user an option for a larger disc, pad and caliper for what ever purpose they wish. But a cheaper option then a super rated system and the being 'Plug and Play' without having to adjust bias etc .
but i've just searched and found single 60mm pot for 24mm discs for about £34 which isnt to bad , just wishing now i kept the old 280mm disc.
hoping that this at the end of the day will allow user an option for a larger disc, pad and caliper for what ever purpose they wish. But a cheaper option then a super rated system and the being 'Plug and Play' without having to adjust bias etc .
singlespeed
Well-known member
If your wanting to keep the temps down, cooling ducts will probably help greatly.
Also, its probably worth looking at the available compounds for any prospective caliper
Also, its probably worth looking at the available compounds for any prospective caliper