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Had mine done on Saturday, at Surrey Rolling Road, which I think are quite accurate rollers.

104.6 hp & 92 lb/ft

Compensated flywheel figures

128.4 bhp & 113 lb/ft

The AFR didn't look too clever, but it was just above 12 at high revs, which is safe. I can scan and post the graphs tomorrow, if you want.
 
Difficult, as most of the loss will be in the gearbox and diff. This is one of the reaons why electric cars will normally have direct motor drive to each driven wheel (another being the high amount of torque from few revs).
 
im thinking the clutch is also a main reason... worst loss are on 4wd cars... friend of mine got SUBARU legacy 241bhp on engine and 135bhp on wheels... :eek:
 
kaskra_1":159pl3o5 said:
im thinking the clutch is also a main reason... worst loss are on 4wd cars... friend of mine got SUBARU legacy 241bhp on engine and 135bhp on wheels... :eek:

Not surprising. You've got a 4wd drive train, and (I think) a viscose coupling.

Do you think your clutch is dragging then? If not, then it's doubtful that it's losing much there.
 
on the begining when changing gears on shift light i was always heard the squeak of the tyres till four.....now i"m not hearing them anymore.
 
The new wheels/tyres will be heavier than the old. Wheelspin has nothing to do with 'transmission losses' but is a loss in the transmission of power to the road. Is that what you are trying to stop - or start happening again?
 
it just doesnt feel that quick while changeing gears.... :roll:
but back to the topic loosing 30% of power is for me a little to much ,for a car which I treating almost like son ;) and it has only 17000 on the clock.
 
What tyres do you have on the 17" wheels? If the diameter is not the same, then acceleration will not be as quick.

As for a 30% loss, I don't know where you get that figure from. 22-23% seems to be closer.
 
The wheels and tyres are the correct profile, so that isn't why it isn't accelerating as it should. The bigger wheels and low profile tyres won't help your cause (I'm on 15" wheels). How about your tyre pressures?

After that, I would start by looking at brakes binding and wheel bearings. Please tell me if I am just suggesting what has already been checked.

If it were the clutch, then you should hear it slipping in high gears, when going up hill. If it's not slipping then, I doubt that is your problem.
 
wheels are correct presure... three months ago i have cleaned the breaks but sometimes the wheels makes horrible squeaky noise when i start to move.
 
If the noise is only first thing in the morning, then it's probably just a bit of rust on the discs. They all do that.

I was thinking about this again, this morning. Could it be that the rolling road that you have used has 'cheated' the calculations for the flywheel figure? You will never get a true BHP figure unless you have the engine on an engine dyno.

There's also the fact that 1 imperial hp is 1.01387 ps (metric horsepower). What are the figures that you have, and what modifications do you have on the car?
 
From my progress thread after my remap.

This is one at the flywheel:
wheelsrevamp.jpg


This is at the wheels:
BHPWheels.jpg


Is quite a big difference TBH between fly and wheels.
 
waitey":4abgd5dp said:
Is quite a big difference TBH between fly and wheels.

Not much different in % to mine. You must be happy with that. It's actually pushing more power than a 133, and 40% more torque than mine at 3k revs. :cool:
 
the rust is impossible becouse the noise coming from the wheels even after longer drive.... especially when im starting to move with my wheels turn in one of a sides...
 
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