curious

[Araf]

the rust is impossible becouse the noise coming from the wheels even after longer drive.... especially when im starting to move with my wheels turn in one of a sides...

Sorry, I thought you meant first thing in the morning.

Maybe you have found your culprit.

 

[kaskra_1]

i think the same.... in saturday im changing wheels on new winter one so i"l take a closer look..
am i right that in some brake discs there are the wheel bearings or i have to buy it separetly... :?: :?:

 

[Araf]

It depends on the car. As you say, some have the outer bearing machined into the disc, others have a separate hub that the disc bolts to. Unfortunately, I don't know which the Twingo has.

 

[waitey]

Is quite a big difference TBH between fly and wheels.

Not much different in % to mine. You must be happy with that. It's actually pushing more power than a 133, and 40% more torque than mine at 3k revs.

Well it seems to be running well now but I've not come across a 133 to have a 'play' with yet!

So can't compare until then, I'm personally all about boost as I prefer a high torque figure than bhp.

Plus my car won't handle anything near a 133 until I save cash up and find somewhere local to do a full fast road/track geometry as the rear needs adjusting but it's fixed and not many places will adjust it!

 

[kaskra_1]

Is quite a big difference TBH between fly and wheels.

Not much different in % to mine. You must be happy with that. It's actually pushing more power than a 133, and 40% more torque than mine at 3k revs.

Well it seems to be running well now but I've not come across a 133 to have a 'play' with yet!

So can't compare until then, I'm personally all about boost as I prefer a high torque figure than bhp.

Plus my car won't handle anything near a 133 until I save cash up and find somewhere local to do a full fast road/track geometry as the rear needs adjusting but it's fixed and not many places will adjust it!

the torque is more usefull in the real world.... i think my twingo with 135bhp has really enough power especially when you ride only in the city just like me,but the torque is something which i miss the most...
if its only has 180-190 Nm, that would be great.. :twisted:

 

[tw11ngo]

the loss actually comes from things like the parasitic drag of bearings and seals, the quality of the gearbox oil you use (there is resistance met when the gears splash through the oil), the heat loss and noise created by the tyre's, you'll need 50psi or around 3 bar to reduce noise and heat loss to it's minimum without blowing the tyre, you'll need to heat the gearbox oil up to it's co-efficient temperature (a 20 or so minute drive before going straight onto the dyno will be perfect), a wheel alignment on the day to eradicate any loss due to unwanted misalignment drags, with the tyres make sure the sidewall height is optimum for transference of power, make sure the gearbox oil is brand new...things like degraded gearbox oil can make it's temperature drop by 10degrees which can show as much as a 20% gain in the HP between the fly and the wheels if corrected with the new box' oil. an oil change too will give an instant few horses, reduce as much unsprung mass as you can to save more weight (which is a drain on the engine and final drive) and sprung mass. remove your abs, remove your air con, get a racing cat installed to minimise back pressure whilst maintaining emissions standards barely. you'll get less drag strain and friction, your engines power will go up, and the gap between flywheel horses and wheel horses will be reduced. hope this helped, good old fashioned running over mapping, every time!