No lights on Dash, Car won't start '59 RS Twingo 133

[ChrisJ]

Hi Folks,

Here is my tale of woe. Firstly it's my fault!

My battery was 'iffy' on my TR7, so I had taken the battery from my Twingo (I have done this a few times now with no issues) just to start the TR7, I would usually use jump leads but seeing as I had the TR7 in the garage, front end in and suspension work on going, I couldn't get the car out. So put battery from Twingo next to car and jumped it. All good.

Put the battery back into Twingo, all started good left running. Then I needed to pop off to get something and realised I hadn't secured battery down in Twingo, with the side clamp, so I did. Now it was at this point I think that I may have inadvertently shorted (very briefly) the ratchet extension bar on an exposed part of the +ve lead, where the insulation had worn ever so slightly. Why I didn't switch the car off and do it is beyond me!!

The car engine stuttered as if it was going to stall but picked up and continued to run ok. I left running as I secured my garage etc then got a call on phone, so I switched off the Twingo to take the call.

Once done it was then when I tried to start the Twingo, I got nothing on the turn of the key. I only get the two lights on the rev counter the ESP light (stays on) and the green gear shift indicator appears and goes off. Leaving the key position in and turned on I do hear a relay click and the a whining sound from the actuator that's attached to the air intake tubing/inlet manifold.

I have seen posts in this forum about the 5A fuse, tried that. In fact I have checked all fuses, relays (coils) and all looks good. It looks as if I have scuppered the immobiliser? The only thing that works on the car is the electric windows, the rear & front wash motors. Nothing comes up on the dash at all, no radio, no interior light, no lights or indicators. It's pointing to the UCH? or ECU?

Looking at pdf's I have found on here for 'passenger Compartment Connection Unit' for engines & peripherals, I take it for the RHD drive the layout of peripherals would be the same and not mirrored from the LHD drive etc All fuses are good. I would have expected a blown fuse before damaging the electronics, it was the first thing I checked and verified, pulling all fuses and cleaning contacts, just in case. But I think the car is scuppered and I feel really sick about it. Could have been worse, could have been the Jag, but I never abuse that like this with no disrespect to my Twingo!

Any thoughts or ideas apart from what I have seen previous on here would be great. I have seen a return/repair service for immobiliser on line, but thought I would ask the forum gurus first. How would I know if the issue stems from the UCH and/or the ECU?

I have snipped and attached the layout schematic, it shows two item '1' 1 x red (engine bay) & 1 brown (by fuse box) but fails to list the item 1 in the red listing, I'll look again later at the car to see if I can see anything.

Thanks in advance for any advice, I have put myself on bread & water for the duration!

Chris.

PS I did buy a new battery yesterday just to eliminate that!

 

[Chester]

I'm not gonna say it's defeinitely it, but it seems like you popped one of the main fuses on the positive battery connector. I really hope it's just one of those fuses. If that isin't the case then you need to check fault codes and if that doesn't work then it's wiring diagram and power distribution/ground distribution investigation

 

[ChrisJ]

Thanks Chester, I went for fuses first off in engine bay then behind glove box. All ok. I then started to verify relays, checking coils etc and even opening up the ones that I could hear & feel operating when switching on.

I suppose as the car continued to run after the short shock when tightening clamp, no major fuse went, although I never checked the dash for faults, as I hadn't realised I did create one at the time until I turned off engine and attempted a restart later.

I was thinking of calling the AA when I have time, a bit cheeky I know but I have not called them out in about 10 years, last time was when my alternator went on my TR!

I'll update any findings in here for sure.

Cheers,

Chris.

 

[ChrisJ]

Managed to remove the UCH module, opened it up and could not see any signs of anything blown. The whole board had been con-coated, this is a process where the board is saved from water condensing onto the board and insulating between components etc. Made it harder to test the relay coils etc. (Viewed quite closely under my bench mag light)

Still down.

 

[ChrisJ]

Success!!!!!

The cable which I had suspected to have gone against, was bugging me and this had been taped up with black insulating tape (previous repair?) The battery protection fuse (60A) was ok as were the other two and ALL other fuses.

Followed cable through whist I was putting glove box assy back together (UCH) think I found a pulled connection as there was no strain relief coming through the bulk head on this cable assy. Makes sense as I had the battery out a few times.

Tried and all lit up, car buzzer sound went off for a moment, ABS light & STOP sign with park brake illuminated, tried to start a couple of times & same, test drove and all warning lights out 50 yards down the road. All still ok after start stopping....happy days.

I will secure cable route a bit better after giving car a full test run.