oops...

[TwingoJoe94]

Just been painting my calipers, took the wheels off the front painted look great.
But as I took the off side rear wheel off I heard I TING, which when I removed the wheel fully became clear...

Can someone recommend some reasonably priced good quality, safe spacers, 10mm or more as the wheel is now sat on the hub safe but its sitting 10mm in towards the car and the tyre is close to the axel. They also need to be for GT rear drums, because the hub sticks out quite far and I had to get these machined out further to fit.
Thanks.

 

[TwingoJoe94]

Does anyone know if these would be a straight fit on drums with no modifications required?

https://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/renault/renault-twingo/suspension/spacers/renault-twingo-mk2-n-40-50mm-eibach-pro-spacer-type-3-7.html

 

[oscar]

a 50 mm spacer joe? ....

 

[sullii94]

a 50 mm spacer joe? ....

Arnt they 2x25mm?

 

[oscar]

one of they homer simpson moments. DOHHHHHHH.


yeah they'll fit nicely man

 

[TwingoJoe94]

Fit onto the 3 mile stick out on the drum, as I had to get these lathed out?
Definitely want to make sure before I fork out as much as that.
What do you think its made out of, steel? I doubt it will be aluminium, because its as soft as pig sh!t.

 

[oscar]

aluminiums soft yeah man, but high tensile alloys of aluminium aren't very soft (alloy wheels etc). eibach pro spaces appear to have the granular consistency of aluminium, so i'd go with aluminium and judging by the weight it would appear to be aluminium. far too light for steel with the amount of mass that's there (cool story dave! needs more dragons and ****...)

the other reason for it being aluminium is reducing unsprung mass. the heavier everything is from the bottom of your suspension spring down to the road wheel and suspension knuckles etc is, the slower you can turn into corners etc so it definitely wouldn't be steel

 

[TwingoJoe94]

Excellent, asking questions just gives me a bit more confidence when I put it on the car to be honest. Will be making a purchase next pay day then.
Thanks for the info.

 

[Spitfire1]

I have a full set of 16mm spacers sitting in my garage, I'm going to put them on ebay along with the wheels that were fitted to the car originally.

The problem you have with the spacers on a GT or standard car is the rear drum lip - it's about 16mm from the base of the drum to it's outer point, so a spacer which has been machined to the standard fitting will shear at the point shown in the above photo - I know mine did exactly the same.

The way around this is to put a chamfer on the actual drum edge to allow the spacer to sit flush on the drum - no big deal, spin the drum and grind away as required.

The material they are made of is not that important, aluminium is fine and better for weight saving, just make sure you have the right length bolts - mine came with the kit.

I've had my wheels made to get rid of the spacers (ET23 on a 7" rim) which I find makes the car feel better - but that's my choice.

Rob

 

[TwingoJoe94]

Yeh thats seems logical, he only thing is I dont have a grinder, and im a little bit a*al with things like that, if renault didnt want 16mm stick out on the drum then they wouldnt have done it at all, theyve done it for a reaso n. I know that it probably will be fine, but I just dont like doing things like that, I know tell me im a **** haha.
I think ill fork out for some bolt to hub spacers, they are expensive yes, but theyre alot safer than hub centric.

 

[oscar]

being cast iron, realistically any kind of welding and adaptation of placing a stronger plate is going to be out the window. i think steve said it best, you'll need to go for 2 wider rear wheels which won't be fun trying to track down no doubt joe

 

[singlespeed]

Realistically you need to go with spacers greater than 18mm as that would leave 2mm for the step where it converts from 60mm ID bore to 60mm OD spigot. Machining your previous ones down must have left the transition area waffer thin and even a steel spacer may have cracked.

A decent coarse/ba5tard file would be fine for creating a 45deg chamfer on the hub. A bit of effort needed but definitely do able. The rears are longer than the fronts due to where the bearing is and then having a cover panel on the end... the casting is fairly thick and the cover panel pushes in a fair bit too so there wouldnt be an issue in making a 2mm chamfer. Its no more a bodge than running spacers really so yep, definite ****

Swear filter stars out *******, hence the 5 in the middle... that realy is the name of a very rough cut file.

 

[TwingoJoe94]

Haha, F*CK buying new wheels ive only just put turinis and toyos on. Yeh well ill be making a purchase on some 25mm bolt to hubs. The engineers at work were saying, the hub just holds the wheel while you put the bolts in and the bolts hold the wheel on, nodding politely and thinking that's rubbish, and this proves it.

 

[oscar]

ouchh lol, engineers eh!? who'd have them

the hub itself takes the weight of the car over each corner through the wheels, more so at the fronts on a front engined car for obvious reasons offcourse. the bolts merely provide a clamping force onto the hub face itself.... whoever said modifying cars was easy.. needs a kick in the turini's!

 

[BRUNE]

How to add photos in my answer I have pictures of modified spacers for TRS cup

 

[singlespeed]

How to add photos in my answer? I have pictures of modified spacers for TRS cup

site-suggestions-help/posting-pictures-and-web-address-links-t6188.html

 

[BRUNE]

it's difficult, i d'nt well understant

 

[TwingoJoe94]

Yeh theyre not automotive though theyre mechanical so they are excused haha. Thats what I was going to say but id just have my genitals kicked into a more painful position with me being an apprentice.
Go on photobucket, sign up, upload, choose photo or video, wait for it to upload, library, copy and paste direct link on the right hand side, go onto the post on twigo133.net, post reply, press IMG, paste between the 2

 

[BRUNE]