RSTuner Issue

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bilham

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I have just plugged my RSTuner in a wront the map to it and have got the following issues can anyone help???

Thanks

Andrew
 

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mmm looks like the image i saw from ktec when i first drove the car up there without a remap and came close to blowing up the engine.
did you get a copy of the standard base map to reload? and checked the base map for any errors before writing the new one?
and sounds like the cats not liking your fueling but least its not blow the oxy sensors out
 
Im not going to lie not sure what you just said (i understand basics but not very technical)

doesn't sound good with your engine tho i assume you got it sorted..

I did so reloaded that which cleared the faults.. the only fault on the first one was something to do with the battery but think this was just because i had ignition on for a little while with out engine running..

Henk has now sent me a new map which seems to have solved it but i'm worried about damage to then engine now..

what do you think?
 
shouldnt of famaged the engine. my faults had the engine detonating on a scale out of 7 out of 12 for 200miles and no damage to the engine. if your not detecting any faults now it should be good. drive around for a bit and see if any faults pop up with the new map.
get car down on a dyno to see how its running.
does the Tuner show you the air:fuel ratio? perfect fueling would be from 3rpm onwards in the area of 12.5 but im not sure if you can map fueling being static and not driving.
 
THanks for your help have taken it for a drive with the new map and no faults have flagged up.. i am going to germany and then spa over the weekend so am concernd as to wether to leave the re-map in... what do you think??

I cant see the air:fuel ratio there are loads of differnt peramiters i can measure tho is there anything i can look at to get the ratio..

thanks for your help.
 
normally thats what is used to get the fueling of the car spot on but if the map is running fine and no flags have shown from now until you hit germany i would just leave it in. also use as higher Oct as you can, not sure if the remap was done for higher fuel rate but at least add fartherprotection to prevent any knocking (detonations) in the engine.
 
Ah ok thanks for your help... I will have 2 take the laptop with me just in case.

What do you think was wrong?
 
Ah ok thanks for your help... I will have 2 take the laptop with me just in case.

What do you think was wrong?
 
looks from errors it was running to rich with air. looking at your screen shot it looks like you can get a live graph read out. that should be able to give you a better look at the mapping on a live test.
might be able to give you a bhp and torque read out, if it can stick it in 3rd and go from 2000rom to redline if you can on a safe road, 4th would be better but you'll need a long road.
 
bilham":3fowtl6s said:
Ah ok thanks for your help... I will have 2 take the laptop with me just in case.

What do you think was wrong?

Are you running the same octane fuel as the motor the remap is based on. If your using 95ron, and the map is based on 98ron. you may have the above problems if the ignition has been advanced to take full advantage of the higher RON.

Or. If you have modified your induction / exhaust so it flows more air than the base map, you will be running lean ( not enough fuel for the air). Being as fuel takes a time to burn, the object is to get it ignited before the piston reaches TDC, so it is fully burnt just after TDC so the cylinder pressure is as high as possible. A lean mixture burns fast and would be fully burnt before, or at TDC, so the pressure is actualy working against the piston instead of pushing it down the bore. Firing the ignition too early also leads to maximum cylinder pressure being accheived too early.

Manufacturers maps play slightly safe on the fuel ratio and ignition timing, whilst getting the maximum power/eficiency for the masses, so any variation between individual cars doesn't lead to detonation. Individual maps would be the best answer as all cars will run slightly different, but that would be un-economical to produce. Simply taking a generic 'tunned' map and hoping it works can cause you greif... it is usualy safer to run slightly rich /retarded than lean / advanced, as this would loose power and use more petrol, insteas of melting pistons
 
Be wary of tunning to get the best out of 98RON if you travel a lot, as you could end up needing fuel when none is avaliable. carrying a can of octane booster could get you out of a corner, but not ideal.
 
Reading all the above makes sense, how do i know what the map is desingerd for is it just a matter of asking the tuner??

I will be using as high ron as i can regardless as will be tracking it so want to make sure im using the best i can (for protection not speed)

You mention melting the pistons?? How??

Thanks
 
bilham":zy2mvktl said:
Reading all the above makes sense, how do i know what the map is desingerd for is it just a matter of asking the tuner??

I will be using as high ron as i can regardless as will be tracking it so want to make sure im using the best i can (for protection not speed)

You mention melting the pistons?? How??

Thanks
Your tunner should know the spec of the engine, including mods to induction, exhaust, ignition and the grade of fuel.

Running lean will run hotter than standard, as the fuel burn is almost an explosion instead of a controled burn, which can cause damage. The hot gasses are also staying in the cylinder fractionaly longer, untill the exhaust valve opens, unlike the correct mix which will probably be still burning part way down the power stroke.
 
singlespeed":36v997gp said:
Be wary of tunning to get the best out of 98RON if you travel a lot, as you could end up needing fuel when none is avaliable. carrying a can of octane booster could get you out of a corner, but not ideal.

In Holland most 98 is replaced by 95 eco fuels That's the reason why I will map the car on Shell V-Power 95 (which is actually 97) because at least that is available in the entire country!
 
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