Twingo boot stuck

[cortong]

Just bought an 08 Twingo yesterday - what a great car apart from This morning boot wont open - any one had this problem?

 

[maggi200]

Fuse. Are all the lights working? Iirc it's one of the same circuits. I once blew a fuse messing with interior lights, went to get my spare from the boot to discover that it was on the same circuit :lol:

 

[singlespeed]

Does your interior light still work?

In the glove box, pull the panel to reveal the fuses. On the back of the panel, there should be a set of twezeres for removing fuses.

This shows the 5Amp fuse to pull if the central locking plays up and the car wont start
Try the 10Amp red fuse below it and see if it has blown

 

[oscar]

i'd be looking at the boot switch relay, as it was a common and known problem on mk 2 / 3 clios, upon which the twingo platform is based on using the same relay switch and locking mechanism's. the way to test it (if neil would be a champ and make another picture!) is to lock and unlock the car and if the relay itself make a little clicking noise it's working (this is the switch inside switching on and off). if it doesn't click, replace (you can youtube or google how to test an automotive relay if you wish, but with the cost of them i wouldn't bother) the relay on the assumption you have checked the fuses like neil pointed out. this should cost you about 6 or 7 pounds


that is basically the entire electrical system leading up to the mechanical lock itself checked, leaving the only remaining suspect the boot lock itself!

 

[Dimitris85]

I had that problem. From the inside, use a screw driver tho move the mechanism. It is a white plastic on the lock mechanism. When you move it, open from outsite and it is ok. Spray with wd-40 or silikon spay It stucks and the mechanism can not move so it is staying locked!

 

[cortong]

Brilliant , thanks guys - i'll try it at weekend . BTW there is a turbo engine going for 360 quid with 25k miles on ebay.

 

[oscar]

Brilliant , thanks guys - i'll try it at weekend . BTW there is a turbo engine going for 360 quid with 25k miles on ebay.

yeah man, that's usually the going rate for one of those engines. it's usually only the bare shell though, no auxilliaries such as alternators or manifolds. probably going to run you closer to a grand if you can get the parts second hand to have a full working engine!

 

[alex12fowler]

Brilliant , thanks guys - i'll try it at weekend . BTW there is a turbo engine going for 360 quid with 25k miles on ebay.

yeah man, that's usually the going rate for one of those engines. it's usually only the bare shell though, no auxilliaries such as alternators or manifolds. probably going to run you closer to a grand if you can get the parts second hand to have a full working engine!

That engine for 360 is the one my dad is selling if your interested?

 

[cortong]

i'd be looking at the boot switch relay, as it was a common and known problem on mk 2 / 3 clios, upon which the twingo platform is based on using the same relay switch and locking mechanism's. the way to test it (if neil would be a champ and make another picture!) is to lock and unlock the car and if the relay itself make a little clicking noise it's working (this is the switch inside switching on and off). if it doesn't click, replace (you can youtube or google how to test an automotive relay if you wish, but with the cost of them i wouldn't bother) the relay on the assumption you have checked the fuses like neil pointed out. this should cost you about 6 or 7 pounds


that is basically the entire electrical system leading up to the mechanical lock itself checked, leaving the only remaining suspect the boot lock itself!

I have unlocked it from the inside a few times and despite loads of WD40 its not clicking or opening from outside - does this mean c.locking not releasing any ideas on what needs to be replaced?

 

[cortong]

i'd be looking at the boot switch relay, as it was a common and known problem on mk 2 / 3 clios, upon which the twingo platform is based on using the same relay switch and locking mechanism's. the way to test it (if neil would be a champ and make another picture!) is to lock and unlock the car and if the relay itself make a little clicking noise it's working (this is the switch inside switching on and off). if it doesn't click, replace (you can youtube or google how to test an automotive relay if you wish, but with the cost of them i wouldn't bother) the relay on the assumption you have checked the fuses like neil pointed out. this should cost you about 6 or 7 pounds


that is basically the entire electrical system leading up to the mechanical lock itself checked, leaving the only remaining suspect the boot lock itself!

I have unlocked it from the inside a few times and despite loads of WD40 its not clicking or opening from outside - does this mean c.locking not releasing any ideas on what needs to be replaced?

 

[singlespeed]

If you have a multimeter, you could probably test the boot unlock switch pad. If the contacts don't close when you press the pad, that would be your culprit.

 

[Tracy]

Does your interior light still work?

In the glove box, pull the panel to reveal the fuses. On the back of the panel, there should be a set of twezeres for removing fuses.

This shows the 5Amp fuse to pull if the central locking plays up and the car wont start
Try the 10Amp red fuse below it and see if it has blown

hi my locking is working on the doors, but the essential boot won't open any help plese TIA

 

[Rigsby]

hi my locking is working on the doors, but the essential boot won't open any help plese TIA

Hi Tracy,

Did you get this resolved as i have a similar problem

 

[mario_dude]

For the above, after you manage to open from the inside smply dissamble the eletric switch open it up and give it a good clean and measure if it opens the circuit and closes with a multimeter. Also see if the rubber in the switch that you press to open dosent have any holes. Moisture gets in and the switch will malfunction. This was the problem in mine. I just sealed it up from the inside.