Yotah´s RS Cup "Nurburgring Edition" -> 204hp F4R832 swap.

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Contact Gaz, they'll answer you.
They don't include top mounts.

Fitting all the CLio subframe and suspension is just plain impossible, all fitting points are different, the width is different, nothing matches.
 
It looks alot faster!

Too bad of the sound though. Would have loved to hear the engine scream.

You think you can get it under 8 min?
 
Should be ok this year yes. i just need to get rid of that gearbox knocking and setup my suspensions to my liking. I've just ordered a full set of geometry tools to do my own setup anytime :)
 
Hi guys

I'm giving out a call to some of you, as I'm planning on building custom adjustable front and rear sway bars. But with my car being 600km away from me, it makes things a bit difficult.
I remember someone here made adjustable drop links for its front sway bar, but I can't remember who and find his topic again.

Does anyone know what is the diameter of the front sway bar on the cup chassi? I think it's 22mm but I'm not sure. Also, I wonder if the bushings where the sway bar is bolted onto the subframe of the car are identical to the Clio 1*2 bushings? poyerflex has some for the Clio but nothing for the Twingo, as usual.

Last thing for the front, can anybody measure the "length" of the sway bar from one side to the other? I'd like to build mine with a tube of similar length, fitted with a sway bar "arm" at each end that can be adjusted with 3-4 holes to position the drop links.

Regarding the rear sway bar, I intend to build it in a similar way to the Whiteline product they have for Clio 1*2 and Twingo, but their product uses crappy materials and cheap fixing plates, so I want to improve that. Therefore I would need some measurement of the rear axle : width from one shock mount to the other, length in "X" of the beam, etc.

If anyone can help, I'm trying to sort this out in the next weeks. I'll try to find a 133 near where I live to take some measurements myself but just thought some could help.
 
Length of the sway bar from bushing to bushing (center) is 55cm. From the center of the bushing to the end of the sway bar is about 25cm (in the same axis as the main sway bar so from left to right). And the arm of the sway bar that creates the torsion is approx. 26cm. The diameter is indeed ~22mm. I measured this by folding myself under a lowered car so they can be slightly off :oops: .

Regarding the bushings, I took a picture so maybe you can figure out if they are the same. I couldn't get any decent measurements.



Btw the GAZ shocks are pretty expensive :| : https://www.motorsportparts.nl/twingo_rs_gold_gaz. I asked him about them and he put them on his website right away.
 
Yes a french guy bought them recently, they retail around 1500€, but they are of much better quality than the ASTs I had before. I'll do my best to get some photos of them on my car next time.

Thanks for the measurements, I'll get cracking on my 3D to build the bar and get it ready in time for the car for the end of July. It has to be fully track ready for early August!
 
Shiny :cool: .

Have you ever looked around at Pure Motorsports. They have some cool stuff to upgrade the suspension, especially the rear axle. And it's cheap if you're comfortable with welding suspension parts yourself ;). They already offer an adjustable rear anti-roll bar.
 
I'm getting the engine top mount from Pure Motorsport. They don't have anything to fit my gearbox setup so I'll order a standard one from Renault Sport and upgrade it myself next week.

I've also ordered new windows today that will be shipped to UK to ACW Motorsport who will laser cut me some new ones to my specs (different thickness, sliders positionned differently also and NACA vents on the rear windows.

DSC_0396%20(600x399).jpg
 
What's your take on the rear axle stiffening kit and rear axle bearing conversion? Seems to me it would be a worthwhile upgrade for heavy track abuse :)

And isn't it easy to get into your car with the sliding pieces in the front windows? Can they be easily opened from the outside?
 
The new ones will be with a locking system. the actual ones are not, so the car is parked safely at a friend's house.

The rear axle modifications mean taking it all apart and welding new mouting points as the axle is rather heavily different on the R2 car. So it will be for another day.
 
Hi yotah, i need your help.

I thought you used RC6 pads on your Twingo before.

I ordered RC6 as well for the front, part nr: 4042 (found the number on kamracing's website)
It said RS133 or R1 car.

The part came today, and it doesn't fit. :(
Did i order the wrong part?

the catalogue not particularly helpful:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmyyi03q3b5g222/CL.png?dl=0

My mechanic said it's not even close.
Did they change something, or what went wrong?
I have a 09 CUP, with the rear bench seats.

The pad dealer sent the following pdf:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B91BR2YnoVJBUEtZTU9uVjRCT0hXQVRXSmZ4SjIwV3BXTnQ4/view?usp=sharing
My mechanic says, these pads don't have the little metal 'clavs', and the stock or ebc had those, so he can't mount them, and the size isn't the same as well.
Can it be mounted, is it safe, or do i need to buy something extra, or what's up with this pad?

ds2500 on the left (with the 'clavs'), and the CL RC6 on the right.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7dilxvyyp9ce7k/IMG_20150708_102600.jpg?dl=0



These pads were _VERY_ expensive for me, and now i'm f****d, EBC doesn't make the yellowstuff for the Twingo anymore, and not like that shit was magic. It didn't overheat, It just wore so fast on trackdays, that it's not even funny.
I can't get DS2500, no dealer has them in Hungary, and we will be at the Nurburgring in 6 weeks.

What are my options?

Thank you!

BTW, your 204 is bonkers, congrats on it :)
 
4042 should be the right sutff. the metal springs are just to keep the pad from gliding against the disc surface when you're not braking, which only means they are a bit noisy when you're not braking. Apart from that, they should fit.

Get me a photo of them, I'll compare with the ones I had before the upgrade.
 
yotah1":1t18fo4k said:
4042 should be the right sutff. the metal springs are just to keep the pad from gliding against the disc surface when you're not braking, which only means they are a bit noisy when you're not braking. Apart from that, they should fit.

Get me a photo of them, I'll compare with the ones I had before the upgrade.
Click to expand...

I found a small disclaimer on KAM racing's site:
"Please note the Twingo RS requires a special version of the CL Brakes 4042 Padshape. The normal 4042 pad set will not work on the Twingo Caliper"

I didn't order from them (KAM), I ordered them from Austria (much closer than UK for me).

I didn't even see them yet. I go back to the garage this evening, and take a pic.

Thanks!
 
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